Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
